Virtually every corner and nook in Aruba bears traces of the past, etched into its walls, streets, and buildings. Some places, however, may seem unremarkable at first glance. This is why, in certain cases, these remnants have endured the passage of time only through stories passed down orally from one generation to the next. Such is the case with Frenchman’s Pass, a dirt road flanked by lush vegetation that is tied to the island’s colonial heritage.
Frenchman’s Pass is located on the northern side of Aruba, just a few steps away from the Spanish Lagoon. Interestingly, Spanish conquerors used this area as their main entry point to the island in the 15th century. These names are no coincidence. In fact, its story unveils intriguing and fascinating details about the variety of European visitors who sought the island’s treasures and natural resources.
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Pirates, a dog and a tragic encounter
Natives say that although the Spanish settled in Aruba in 1499 under the leadership of Alonso de Ojeda, the Caribbean was full of pirates of different nationalities. The French, in particular, may have decided to take a risk and enter through this part of the west coast. Why? Because, at the time, only Fort Zoutman stood and was located an hour’s walk away.
This feat, which occurred during harvest time, would have been successful if it had not been for the members of a tribe led by a man called Gaspeti. He and his companions spotted the foreigners before they could venture too far into a narrow and solitary passage, where they confronted them. The official Visit Aruba website explains that the French easily gained the upper hand, forcing the locals to quickly flee and hide in a cave in what is now known as Canashito.
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At this point the story branches into two different versions. Some people claim that a dog found the group and used its barking to signal their position. Meanwhile, others say that there were no canine intermediaries and that it was the French themselves who discovered them.
Whatever the case may be, the pirates started a fire to lure their enemies out of hiding. Apparently, their plan backfired, and all the Indians, including their leader, died. Since then, Arubans have referred to that simple dirt road we mentioned at the beginning of this tale as “Frenchman’s Pass” or, in Papiamento, “Rooi Frances”.
How can I get to Frenchman’s Pass?
If you want to go from the Oranjestad city center to Frenchman’s Pass by car, a journey of about 20 minutes awaits you. Simply head down to Socotorolaan towards Emmastraat. Then, take Adriaan Laclé Boulevard and follow Route 1 through Sabana Grandi, continuing on Route 4. A guide is not necessary.
In addition to enjoying the enigmatic tranquility of Frenchman’s Pass, take the opportunity to explore other nearby attractions. The Spanish Lagoon, in particular, is an excellent spot for swimming, birdwatching, and hone your photography skills. The more adventurous travelers can also explore the area in search of hiking trails and companies that offer equipment for practicing water-based activities.
The Balashi Gold Mill ruins offer a change of scenery with its stone buildings and picturesque cacti. You do not have to pay an entrance fee, and, given this place’s interesting background, it is highly recommended to join a local guide for an informative excursion. Be sure to bring comfortable shoes, water, and, of course, a camera to capture the essence of this unique area of Aruba.
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